Happy Spring, friends. One of the greatest times of the year (because we all know the real MVP is fall). But we love Spring. The days are longer (yay?). The streets feel alive again. The flowers are blooming. The return of rooftop/park moments. My birthday! It’s not too hot, not too cold; all you need is a light jacket (IYKYK). Rain boots become a regular part of our wardrobe again. But most importantly, the food situation is much, much better. Greener, even. Everything here is about to get way more interesting - at least, I hope so.
As I was trying to think of how to kick-off spring, I thought about the flavors that sort of represent this time of year: fresh, bright, light, herby. Something you may want to eat for lunch on your back porch. But then, of course, there are those “April showers,” when you still want something cozy, warm, and comforting. We’re not at the point of picnic pasta salad just yet, but it’s also time we move on from stews. So obviously, we make clams. Springy clams.
Cooking clams is fun because it’s one of those cooking experiences that feels like a huge accomplishment, but is actually very simple (which is…sort of how it should always be). You set clams on the table, and everyone will think that you’re the real deal (and you are), but the clams are doing all the work for you. They release a ton of liquid to add a delicious and briny/ocean-watery flavor to your broth. As you can imagine, this will also impart plenty of salt to the dish; one less thing for you to stress about. And the best part: they tell you when they’re done. Clams have a marvelous little self-timer and will pop open once they’re ready. And when you catch one in the act, it’s just as cute as you think.
Before you begin, take some time to get to know your clams. Check them carefully to make sure they’re all tightly closed. If a clam is open, it has died and shouldn’t be cooked. The clams you buy have most likely been rinsed and scrubbed already, but it’s a good idea to give em a little extra bathe, just to remove any residual sand. All it takes is an hour-long plunge in some salty water and a gentle scrub with a kitchen brush. Then let your clams relax in some fresh water while you start cooking.
We’re not making clam pasta here — we’re making Springy Clams. That means clams in a rich broth of white wine and coconut milk, fresh herbs, and plenty of lemon. Also, because ‘tis the season, we’re adding spring garlic and onion. Spring garlic, or green garlic, is just garlic that hasn’t fully matured. It’s a hallmark of spring — normally one of the first signs at farmer’s markets that the days are getting warmer. It tastes like garlic, but a bit milder. Spring onions are the same concept — very young onions. You can absolutely use regular garlic and onion in place here. Not as festive…but do what you will.
Once our broth is going, we add the clean clams and steam for a few minutes until they’ve opened. Give the pan a shake here and there to encourage the clams not to be too shy; it’s like cooking popcorn. As they open, remove them to stop the cooking or they’ll get too tough. If any don’t open, discard them and move on (they’re dead). Once all your clams are open and cooked, we turn our attention back to that broth. And, because it’s me, maybe some beans come into play??? Add a can of any white bean of your choice (I opt for butter beans here, because they’re huge and gorgeously creamy). Use this moment to taste your broth for seasoning. Does it need more salt? I doubt it but go ahead. More spice? More acidity? Maybe you chop up a little preserved lemon you made during our Winter Citrus era and add that? Maybe the green garlic doesn’t pack enough garlic flavor for you, and you want to grate a fresh garlic clove directly into the hot pan; a genius move.
After you have a delicious and creamy broth, kill the heat and add your clams back to the pan. Gently toss everything to combine, and finish with chives and parsley. These clams want to be served directly from the pan, next to a bottle of any dry white wine, and plenty of toasted bread to sop up that broth. Also, highly recommend a bright and crisp salad of sorts. I went with thinly sliced celery, radish, buttery olives, a heaping pile of celery leaves, parsley, and a good drizzle of olive oil/lemon juice. Finish with flaky salt and we have a perfect companion for these briny/creamy clams.
The Playlist
Happy Spring Equinox! Here’s your go-to sunny morning / rainy afternoon playlist. This + the sound of rain hitting your window + cozy clams?
You’re welcome.
LEEK Recipe Club
Visit the LEEK Recipe Club to find the recipe for these springy clams, as well as others from previous issues. I’ll also be using this spot to feature family&friend recipes, plus some of my personal favs and other inspo. Give ‘er a look. Have a recipe you wanna share? Lemme know!
LEEK is a semi-regular newsletter / market challenge / cooking journal / and community for folx curious about food, and what to do with it. If that sounds like you...