Listen - I love a cold winter, more than most people. The general state of being I prefer is ~cozy~. But there comes a time every winter when I’m over it; sick of the overcast skies, stews, hot coffee, beanies. I’m just antsy for, I don’t know, sunshine??? And how fitting (concerning) that the last couple of days in New York have been a nice 60-degree tease! (Truly started writing this when it was 20 degrees outside and now I’m walking around the neighborhood in a light jacket). So while we cherish this temporary moment of sun, and wait patiently for Spring to bring more life to the dreary farmer’s markets here in the city, I decided to explore a more fruitful (lol) staple of the Winter season: citrus.
I have to say, the fact that citrus is in season during the winter is a pretty genius move on the part of Mother Nature; a nice glimmer of hope. Obviously “local” citrus doesn’t exist out here in New York, so I looked elsewhere. For those of you here in the city, I highly recommend Farm to People, a farmer’s market delivery service that’s been saving my life this winter. They have a gorgeous citrus variety that’s sourced from farms out in California. For those of you not in the city, many of these farms, such as Rising C Ranches, have a mail-order option online. Another farm I’ve ordered from is Frog Hollow Farm. Try out as many different citrus fruits as you can; a box of various mandarins, pretty pink Cara Cara oranges, sweet Meyer lemons, tangelos, kumquats, Buddha’s hand! Also - a stellar gift idea.
Like most things, there are endless possibilities with citrus. We’ve all added sliced oranges to a salad, bought a bag of limes for our pregames, and probably use lemons to brighten up our cooking on the reg (right?). But rather than buying a clementine and immediately peeling/eating it over the sink, or just squirting a lime wedge over your taco, why not take a risk? If I’m coming clean, I tend to avoid citrus fruits altogether, mostly because I can’t stand having to peel things. I’d say I’m a relatively patient person, but peeling an orange really sends me over the edge. So I find it extremely satisfying when I’m able to enjoy a citrus fruit in its entirety, peel and all.
Preserving citrus is one of the best ways to take advantage of the flavors the full fruit has to offer. Perhaps you’ve already encountered the Moroccan staple, preserved lemons, but that technique can apply to most citrus fruits. Wash the fruit thoroughly, cut into quarters (or leave whole, depending on how small they are), sprinkle the fruit with salt, and pack into a jar, layering with more salt as you go. Press the fruit down to release the juices, then add enough lemon juice to the jar so the fruit is fully submerged. After 4 weeks, you have a delicious, salt-cured topping for salads and stews, a base for vinaigrettes, or a nice add-on for fish (citrus loves seafood). And yes, you can eat the whole thing.
I’ve always been a big strawberry jam fan; that’s usually my go-to for diner toast. When I was traveling around Thailand a few years back, most of the hostels I stayed in offered toast with breakfast, but only had orange marmalade on hand. Weird. So very quickly, I fell in love with a slice of toast with salted butter and orange marmalade. One of the hostels even made their own in-house, a delicious mixed citrus marmalade. This is a fantastic method for preserving peak citrus. Marmalades obviously bring out the sweetness in the fruit, but you also get a nice bitterness from the peel/rind. You can add a vanilla bean to your batch, or maybe some grated ginger, star anise, a cinnamon stick! Beyond toast, it makes a great addition to marinades and/or glazes for meats, or could even be shaken into a cocktail (!). It will also make your home smell absolutely divine…
If you haven’t tried roasting your citrus fruits, you haven’t lived. It’s another fantastic way to use the fruit in its entirety. Roast alongside chicken, pork, or salmon (citrus loves seafood) for an excellent dinner. The flesh becomes soft and caramelized, while the peels get nicely charred and crispy in some spots, tender in others. Maybe roast a variety of citrus fruits on their own to make a nice citrus relish?? Thinly slice your citrus, toss in a bowl with olive oil, a dash of sugar, and a dash of salt. Roast on a baking sheet at 375, until golden and crisp. While these ones are roasting, take a few additional citrus fruits and peel and cut into segments. Tear your roasted citrus pieces and toss with the fresh segmented pieces, stirring in whatever herbs you fancy and a good sprinkling of flaky salt. Maybe some chili flakes for some much-needed heat. Starting a campaign for this to replace cranberry sauce at Thanksgiving…
If you take anything from this newsletter, it should be that Citrus! Loves! Seafood! If you’re deep in the woes of winter and craving a bright and summery meal, might I suggest this Citrusy Shrimp with Crushed Olives? It takes on similar properties to a chicken piccata; tangy and bright, salty and subtly sweet, and perfectly savory. The shrimp are quickly seared over high heat, and then swiftly removed from the pan to make room for a nice citrusy, shallot moment. The citrus slices absorb the shrimpy, garlicky, shallot(y) flavors to become overwhelmingly delicious. The crushed olives add a nice buttery and salty touch. Then everything gets tossed together for a quick finish, with parsley and fresh citrus wedges to round it out. I prefer leaving the peel on the shrimp, as it imparts a deeper shrimp flavor into the dish (also, remember, I don’t like to peel things). This dish is meant to be more of a starter/appetizer, like a (very) elevated shrimp cocktail. But it would make a lovely meal on its own, paired with some rice or over pasta. Take a bite of shrimp with an olive and orange slice and you’re suddenly at a rooftop picnic in mid-July.
The Playlist
We’re having fun here. Imagine you’re at said rooftop picnic in mid-July. A light summer breeze; music blasting while you dance around in your flowy linens. But instead, it’s snowing outside and you have marmalade simmering on the stove. Or maybe you’re riding your bike along the beach, getting a good whiff of the salty ocean. But instead, you’re just smelling that delicious citrusy shrimp in your kitchen. Same vibes, only different! For me, summer sounds like disco, synthpop, Robyn, Chaka, a little Fleetwood Mac. It’s the joy. Give me a tequila soda with a lime and we have a full citrus partay!
The Universe has graced us with an incredible gift in Winter Citrus; a true bright light amidst the gloom. Use it while you can, and use it wisely. We’re all due for some brightness, and warmer days are just around the corner. As my mother used to say to me during rough times:
“tomorrow will be kinder...” ☀️
LEEK is a semi-regular newsletter / market challenge / cooking journal / and community for folx curious about food, and what to do with it. If that sounds like you...
Now I want to can something!!!