Hello, hi, yes I’m still here; my deepest apologies for my extended absence. Life has been all over the place and moving very quickly as of late, so finding the time and energy to write has been a challenge. Many have reached out asking what I had planned for the newsletter for Thanksgiving and the answer is: I have truly hardly thought about it.
I’ve been in travel and work mode for the last two months and have found myself in Sarasota, Florida for the holidays. While I normally look forward to menu planning with friends in the city and running around Union Square the day before Thanksgiving to buy as many herbs as I can, this year is looking very different. I’ll be with my mom and her fiancé, on the beach, with an assortment of cheese and crackers from Trader Joe’s. We’ll probably go out to dinner and finish the night with cocktails at some cute tiki bar full of drunk middle-aged Midwesterners. A *great* Thanksgiving - and I won’t be cooking a thing.
But I couldn’t let my favorite holiday pass by without sharing one tiny recipe, and this one’s pretty promising. I’m one of those people that would rather eat nothing but sides at the Thanksgiving table, so I take them very seriously. I want a salad, a creamy/starchy situation, a green bean and/or brussels moment, all the stuffing, and a sticky/sweet squashy thing of sorts.
Squash with Citrusy Brown Butter & Hazelnuts
2 pounds squash (honeynut, butternut, acorn), cut in half or quartered, seeds removed
4 tablespoons olive oil
8 tablespoons butter (1 stick)
1 cup hazelnuts, roughly chopped
1 orange, zested and juiced
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 teaspoon cinnamon
A few fresh sage leaves, torn
Kosher salt / black pepper
Flaky salt, to finish
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Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place squash on a rimmed baking sheet (cut side up). Drizzle with olive oil and season well with salt and pepper. Turn squash cut side down, and roast until tender and caramelized, about 45 minutes.
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. As it starts to foam, add the hazelnuts and sage, toasting for a few minutes. Stir consistently until the melted butter has turned golden brown, and remove from the heat. Add the orange zest and juice, maple syrup, cinnamon, and season with salt and pepper.
Transfer the squash to a large plate or serving platter, and spoon the butter mixture over the top. Dress with additional sage leaves and flaky salt.
This is a perfect last-minute side dish because it welcomes multiple substitutions. If you’re not a fan of squash (?) or don’t have any on hand, use sweet potato. No oranges? Okay, leave em out. Cut the sweetness with some lemon juice. No maple syrup? Use honey. No sage? Great - thyme or oregano would be wonderful as well. No hazelnuts? Walnuts or pecans would be delicious. We just want butter, sweetness, and crunch. For planning purposes, all of this can be made ahead of time. While this is perfectly fine room-temp, if you wish to enjoy it warm, reheat the squash in the oven at 425 degrees for about ten minutes before serving, and warm the butter mixture gently on the stovetop (or in the microwave tbh).
Maybe this isn’t satisfying enough for you and/or the thought of having a hunk of squash on your plate seems too aggressive (it’s not btw). And maybe you’re still on the lookout for that much-needed Thanksgiving salad. After dressing the squash with the butter mixture, cut them into smaller pieces and mix with a bitter green of your choosing, such as radicchio. I even tossed the torn radicchio leaves with the reserved butter mixture, because yes, brown butter is an exceptional salad dressing.
Thanks for listening and reading and cooking with me for the last 11 months (!). Things might remain quiet here while I enjoy the rest of my time in the sunshine, but I do promise there’s more to come.
Happy Thanksgiving, fam. Please eat well <3
LEEK is a semi-regular newsletter / market challenge / cooking journal / and community for folx curious about food, and what to do with it. If that sounds like you...
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