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16. Shelling Beans

the superior bean, IMO

You call it soup season, I call it Brothy Beans Season. I’ve made it very clear by now that there are few things I love in the world more than beans (see my love letter to beans from earlier in the year). While I’ll partake in a dried bean year-round, the end of summer/early fall is prime shelling bean season. They taste great, cook up in no time, and there’s no overnight soaking required. You’ll most likely find cranberry (as seen here), or cannellini. Aim for the heavy pods with plump beans inside, and avoid any that feel soft or look overly brown. Then, enjoy a quiet afternoon of shucking.

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Shuck & Rinse: Shell the beans into a large bowl and give them a good rinse to remove any dirt.

Flavor: Sauté any alliums you have on hand (garlic, shallots, onions, leeks, all delicious) in a generous amount of olive oil. Add half a lemon and give it a nice char. Throw in a few sprigs of fresh or dried herbs (basil, thyme, oregano, etc. I’m using fresh marjoram here).

Simmer: Dump your beans into the pot and season with salt and pepper. Pour in enough water to cover everything by at least an inch, and simmer gently with the lid on. Periodically check the beans for tenderness, and stir every ten minutes or so, adding more water as needed.

Crunch: It’s necessary. Toast some hefty bread crumbs in the oven, make buttery/crispy panko on the stovetop, or tear some pieces of crusty bread for dipping. Maybe butter a whole piece of toasted bread to ladle your beans over.

Finish: Add a splash of vinegar or lemon juice to brighten everything up. The options are endless from here. Drain the beans and add them to salads, use them as a base for various soups, serve alongside roasted chicken, blend them into a dip. But nothing beats a bowl of brothy beans. Wash and tear some tender greens (kale, chard, escarole). Add these to your beans just before serving and let the residual heat of the pot gently wilt them down. Top with those crispy breadcrumbs, grated parm, and more olive oil. Yum…


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