A group of friends and I recently gathered for our first rooftop hang of the year. There was tequila and a giant watermelon and karaoke — per usual. I was tasked with bringing a snack — per usual. I wanted something easy, handheld, and springy. So I settled on a simple spring tart: two ways!
We’re going savory & sweet here, and turning toward two spring staples currently in their prime: rhubarb and asparagus. For our sweet-tart, we’re complementing the sour/acidic rhubarb with a rich, custardy pistachio spread. It’s buttery. It’s nutty. It’s citrusy. It’s perfect. The savory tart is loaded with all the spring goods you want - hearty asparagus, spring onions, ramps (yes I know, I am also over them), green garlic, and plenty of melty cheese. Both are incredibly foolproof templates for any and all seasonal produce; peaches and tomatoes in the summer, squash and figs in the fall. Minimal effort, big reward.
On puff pastry…
If there’s one thing I love in the kitchen, it’s a shortcut. And no shortcut is more welcomed or appreciated than an airy, flaky, buttery, store-bought puff pastry. It just makes perfect sense. Why would I ever stress myself out by attempting a laminated dough when someone has already done all of that work for me? We all know Pepperidge Farm, and if you’re on a budget - great choice. But understand that there’s actually no butter involved there; we want butter. For a higher quality “all butter” option, I’d recommend Dufour frozen pastry. It’s definitely the more costly alternative, but well worth it.
BUT - if you “enjoy baking” and consider it your “thing,” then by all means, please make your own puff pastry. I’ll sit back and offer all the support.
Rhubarb & Pistachio
I want to first come clean and share that I actually don’t *love* rhubarb. In fact, I don’t *love* most tart things. But, I can acknowledge that rhubarb is a classic spring item that many people enjoy, so I will entertain it for a brief moment. Rhubarb is extremely tart and sour, so you want to give it some sweetness and fat. The rhubarb is coated with sugar and orange juice/zest, but the real star is a delicious pistachio frangipane.
Frangipane is traditionally an almond-flavored custard, made with ground almonds, butter, eggs, and sugar. It’s one of those ventures that feels like a huge triumph (and, it is!), but very little work actually goes into it. You can substitute with any nuts you wish. For this version, we’re using pistachios.
1 14 oz sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed
8 oz rhubarb stalks (roughly 3-4 large stalks), cut into 1-inch pieces
1 orange
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 cup pistachios
4 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
2 large eggs, 1 beaten for egg wash
1 tbsp. vanilla extract
1 tbsp. flour
Kosher salt, to season
Coarse sugar, for dusting the crust
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Preheat the oven to 375F.
In a large bowl, add the rhubarb pieces, the juice/zest of one orange, and 1/4 cup of sugar. Stir to combine, and set aside to rest for ten minutes.
Make the frangipane: In a food processor, blitz the pistachios into a coarse powder. In a large bowl or stand mixer, whisk together the softened butter and 1/4 cup of sugar until light and fluffy. Add one egg and vanilla extract, and mix to combine. Add the ground pistachios, flour, and a pinch of kosher salt, mixing until you’ve formed a nice paste. Taste for seasoning, adding more sugar/salt, if necessary (yes raw egg blah blah).
Roll the puff pastry into a rectangle, and place it on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Using a fork, dock the pastry all over, leaving a border of 1/2 inch on all sides. Spread the pistachio frangipane within the border, and top with the citrusy rhubarb pieces. Whisk the beaten egg with a splash of water and brush on the rim of the tart, sprinkling with coarse sugar. Bake until the frangipane is set, and the pastry is puffed and golden, 35-40 minutes.
Once finished, sprinkle with extra pistachio powder, flaky salt, and a drizzle of honey.
Asparagus & Cheese
Admittedly, way less thought went into this savory tart, but it’s still a keeper.
Roll out a puff pastry onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Give her a good spread of whole grain mustard and then top with any alliums of your choosing. As I mentioned, I went with sautéed ramps, green garlic, and scallions, but this would also be just as delicious with caramelized onions and/or leeks. Next, add a good amount of shredded cheese (about a cup). The salty/creaminess of gruyere is unmatched here, but cheddar is also an excellent choice. Halve your asparagus, and place them over the top of your tart, drizzling with olive oil, and seasoning with plenty of salt + pepper. Brush the rim of the tart with egg wash, and bake at 375F until the tart has puffed and turned golden brown, about 30-35 minutes.
Once finished, top with torn pieces of prosciutto, shaved parm, a squeeze of lemon, and a good handful of any herbs of your choice (dill or tarragon are excellent). It was a hit, I won’t lie.
The Playlist
While I love a good cooking playlist, I also love a good cooking podcast. Here are a few I listen to regularly:
The Dave Chang Show - A titan of the culinary world. Talking all things food, restaurants, creativity, and culture.
Recipe Club - Also from Mr. Chang. Each week, he and a few guests experiment in the kitchen to find the best recipes, usually with a singular ingredient at the center of the conversation.
Home Cooking - Samin Nosrat and Hrishikesh Hirway answer common home cooking questions. The pod started at the beginning of quarantine in March 2020 when everyone was suddenly forced to cook their own food, and quickly became a generous companion for me in my lonely San Diego kitchen.
Borderline Salty - Similarly, Carla Lalli Music and Rick Martinez answer caller cooking questions and discuss the latest food trends. Very fun.
Still Processing - No, not a food podcast, but a regular listen for me in the kitchen. By Wesley Morris and Jenna Wortham — two brilliant, black & queer writers for the New York Times. Everything I know about culture I’ve learned from them.
LEEK Recipe Club
For all the written LEEK recipes, including this Rhubarb & Pistachio tart, head to the Recipe Club!
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